ADD FLARE WITH
Scribe the sill. Cut it out. Test the
fit and install.
Once the template fits, I transfer it to the finished piece and
cut. I then rout a bullnose on the
top and bottom of the front three
edges. It’s worth mentioning that,
theoretically, I’d stop here to sand
and urethane the sill to protect it
during installation. The reality of
progress, however, T-bones that
notion like a Hummer hitting a
Hyundai, so I keep building.
Now that the sill is scribed I
can remove existing window-weight shaft casing. On this
house, it’s 1/2 inch stock with a
beaded window stop.
Remove the existing trim.
For a house-sized project I’d
buy the parts and simply size
them as needed on site like any
other trim. I planned to do that
for this room because my lumber
yard’s trim catalogue calls the
beaded molding a “stock” item.
Of course, what they meant to
say was “special order.” Long
story short, I used a table saw to
mill it on site from 1/2-inch base
molding stock. Layout Tip: Forget
measuring. Use the piece itself
as a gauge to set your table saw.
Also, a premium blade like
Freud’s Fusion really cuts down
on the swirl marks that most construction blades leave. Finally,
getting a bead this tight on 1/2-
Cut new trim pieces. Use the
originals as gauges to set up
your saw; use a nice blade to
minimize cutting marks.
inch stock doesn’t work without a
router table. So, all I did was cut
the bead on 3/4-inch stock and
rip the back-side off later. The
chamfer on the fascia matches
the window’s flare— 16 degrees.
For a double window, I mill a 1-
by- 8 down to a 1/2-by- 8 for the