center mullion using the thickness planer. Multiple passes,
knocking off no more than 1/16
inch per pass, is the way to go.
The next phase is to simply
install the pieces.
Install the new pieces of beaded
molding.
GOOD-BYE PLASTER,
HELLO DRYWALL
With the walls and ceilings
hung, the wood trim replaced and
the sill installed, I have my layout
control points. I’ll use those to
detail the new soffit and jamb
leg returns. But I need a beveled
2-by as a backer to fasten the
drywall to. I rip this on the table
saw and then install with 2-inch
screws. Note: Before installing
the full piece, I make sure the
backer
Rip the backer’s bevel and fasten
to the jack stud with 2” screws.
fits and the drywall passes by it
cleanly using a drywall scrap as
a template.
The soffit goes in first, and
then I tuck the jamb legs underneath. Before installing them, I
cut them proud of the wall thickness. I then rasp a chamfer on
the back of each to create a leading edge that tucks tightly to the
fascia casing. Next, I install the
piece. I keep pressure toward the
front while fastening. This usually
leverages the slab tight to the
fascia casing. Two-inch screws
work best here, in case there’s
a gap between the jamb leg and
the backer.
Cut off, then rasp down, the
wild edge of each jamb leg.
