Extreme How-To - April 2010

CONCRETE
STAINING
STEP-BY-STEP

4. We advise against using concrete with short reinforcing fibers. The slab ends up looking a bit “hairy,” usually in clumps.

5. You will need to protect the slab from tar and paint spots. For new concrete, let the slab cure for at least two weeks, then lay down plastic.

6. When covering the slab, do not use sticky tape to hold the covering down. This leaves dark, blocky marks in the concrete, which are permanent.

7. Avoid framer’s markings, such as red framer’s chalk or crayon, which seems to be completely permanent and can show through the translucent stain.

8. It’s best to stain the floor after the walls are painted but before toilets, kitchen cabinets, interior doors and baseboards are installed.

9. The acid stain can be wicked up and turn wood black, so it is good to have wood door frames painted or sealed before floor staining begins.

WHERE TO GET STAIN
AND SEALERS

True acid stains, which do the best job of enhancing the slab, are completely translucent. One can see all the curing anomalies in the slab right through the stain, so the result looks truly like a stone or marble floor. True acid stains are not purchased at a paint store or hardware store. Due to the acid content in the stain they are considered “ hazardous materials” for shipping purposes. They are also fairly tricky to use, so retail stores do not want to deal with problems caused by amateurs using the product. You will need to go to a Concrete Equipment and Supplies Store to buy the stains. These stores have the HAZMAT rating necessary to ship and deal with such stains. Concrete stores are used to dealing with professional contractors; although some will not sell stain to the general public, most of them will.