immediately (use a professional quality, plastic-bris-tled brush with bristles of medium stiffness), using
a circular, or figure eight, motion. You should see
some fizzing, which is the chemical reaction. After
one section of floor has been stained, a third worker
may lay texturing elements down while the stain is
still wet. This worker is often assigned to detailing
Use a small China bristle brush to paint stain into
saw cuts, corners and around doorframes. Some
colors may be mixed right on the floor, while others
can be mixed in the bottle. Keep in mind that blues
and greens are the most fragile colors. They should
be applied first. If the color is too intense, you can
cancel out blue or green with a spray of brown. (Test
first—some strong blue colors will “erase” the dark
walnut brown colors).
Be careful not to overwork the stain, and do not
spread it too far. Pour new stain for each new area.
Scrubbing already-reacted stain onto a fresh gray
area will leave visible brush marks at the end of the
staining job. If you are working with large saw-cut
squares, we recommend you work square-by-square.
On a slab without saw cuts, stain contiguous
areas of about 12 square feet, and apply an edge of
water around areas already stained. Work your way
around the floor in a fish-scale pattern. You want to
avoid working in rectangles—overlaps or seams
could result in an unnatural grid effect. Be sure the
stain you are applying in section B overlaps the
water border you put down around section A.
Stain needs a full four hours to react properly, so
be patient. At the end of the dry time, you may
notice some pale spots where the floor is either
high or slick. This is bound to happen, but it’s very
hard to determine where, and on which floors. We
find that some pulling away of stain usually happens
near wall edges. To restain these areas, use a plastic
spray bottle filled with stain and spray them about 45
minutes before scrubbing. Second stainings seem to
“take” more rapidly than initial applications.
You can also use this as an opportunity to add
color accents to the gray (high) spots in the floor.
Just be sure that the accent color isn’t too much
darker than the original base color. For a brown floor
with subtle accents of green, we apply the green to
the high spots with a sprayer the next morning when
we can see where the stain has rolled away.
If the stain is blotchy across all the floor, the
entire slab should be stained again to even out the
surface. The second staining should be done by
sprayer. We have to re-stain the entire floor about
60 percent of the time.