connection needs to be very
solid. Hold the backer to the
level line and tack in place with
finish nails or screws. It helps
to have an assistant for this.
enabling it to slide without
However, it’s always a good
idea to test how your door will
roll on the hardware to make
sure it clears everything and
doesn’t leave too big of a gap.
I did this with a block of wood
as thick as the door (you don’t
need to build the whole door).
INSTALL THE RAIL
I drilled all the pilot holes (3/8
inches, just slightly smaller than
the 1/2-inch shank of the lag
screw I used) and then installed
the stand-offs and rail using an
impact driver and a Stanley Black
Chrome socket. The backer and
stand-offs hold my 1-1/2-inch
door slab out past the casing
with a little room to spare,
Set up a scrap spray block and
spray paint the hardware.
Pre-stain the door parts. A rolling
scaffold like this Werner works
well for this.