These finishes offer pigment and
protection, but there’s no glossy
coat on the penetrating stains.
WATER VS. OIL COATING
Most water-based stain/sealants
have tiny particles of pigment
and resin that adhere to each
other very tightly as the finish
dries, similar to a patchwork
quilt. With oil-based finishes,
the tiny particles actually fuse
together chemically into one
large sheet-like substance, which
achieves a harder finish and is
less likely to amber. Examine the
product’s label for clues to the
coating’s quality, keeping an eye
out for anything that mentions
“non-yellowing” properties.
Water-based finishes are
generally heralded for their
ease of use. Compared to oil-
based formulas, they are easier
to clean up, have a lower odor
and are often less expensive.
However, most water-based
coatings require more coats
and still don’t last as long
before requiring re-applica-
tion, when compared to their
oil-based or “alkyd” counterparts.
TAPE PEEL TEST
FOR OLD SOLID
COLOR STAINS
Use the tape peel test
when planning to stain older,
weathered wood that has
been coated with a solid
color stain. This will determine if your wood is ready to
be stained or needs to be
stripped first. Follow these
steps:
1. Use a putty knife or other
sharp blade and cut a small
“X” in two or three random
spots on the surface of the
existing finish. Be careful not
to cut into the wood.
2. Cover the cuts with duct
tape, and press down firmly
on the tape.
3. Then, quickly remove the
tape.
4. If any flakes of old wood
stain or wood fibers are
stuck on the tape, your wood
needs to first be stripped.
(Information courtesy
www.olympic.com)
