Extreme How-To - January/February 2011

Then, using the distance-meter, I was able to measure each moulding length, then cut it on my chop saw and nail it in place in about 7-1/2 minutes each. The square cuts are the key to the system, so if you can measure and cut a board, you can successfully install this system. (Add about 1/4 inch to each measurement, and you’ll find the urethane moulding will “snap” into place). That equates to approximately 30 minutes to install all four moulding strips. If you’re using a tape measure, you can expect it to take more time.

Also of note, the light weight and flexibility of the urethane makes installation go faster. I was working alone, and even without an assistant to lift the far end of moulding into place, the material bends, and was light enough to temporarily pinch in place between the corner blocks as I ran the nailer down its length, fastening flush to the wall. Apply adhesive to each end of the moulding where it meets the corner blocks.

Unfortunately, the final phase is not much fun, and I’m afraid even Fypon can’t help us here. Caulking joints, filling nail holes, sanding down and applying touch-up paint are necessary evils for any crown-moulding system, if you want a truly finished look. Excluding drying times, I spent roughly an hour of actual worktime completing these tasks. However, I was working around a rather odd obstacle— a “hardened” textured ceiling. In many cases, installers can actually lay down popcorn texture along the edge of the ceiling with a damp sponge that melts the texture to flatten it for a flush fit. This ceiling had unfortunately been encased in several layers of oil-based paint