I use a pneumatic
nailer to fasten
new trim to existing plaster. To
make sure I get a
snug connection to
the wood lath, I
sometimes nail in
a V pattern.
wall is, I measure it from straight-edge to straight-edge in three places—top, middle, bottom. That way
I’m sure I can rip the jamb stock wide enough to
cover the widest expanse, ensuring that the casing
will lay flat and not mess up the miters. I can back-caulk any gaps.
Insulating exterior wall cavities isn’t the only place
you can tighten the building envelope when the plaster is down. Take the opportunity to seal up places
you might not consider obvious, like along the band
joist or between ceiling joists. This is an investment
that pays back every day in energy savings.
Also, we’ve insulated for sound in our ceilings and
partition walls (apparently our home was originally
To make sure I
get an accurate
the actual jamb
doors, I measure
edges bridged over
the opening. I
want to use the
so miters can
close and casing
can lay flat. A 2’
level works in the
corners, and a 6’
level is best for
by the floor.