a feather-board or some other make-shift guide to help hold the stock in place as it passes through the router. The large cutting surface of the router bit combined with a long piece of lumber necessitates the need for some type of feather-board. Otherwise, it is almost impossible to make an accurate cut. With the table set up, I was then able to run my first board through to make the cove cut in what will be my new piece of siding. Actually, I made several passes through the router to only remove small amounts of wood with each pass from the treated stock, because the 3/4-in. panel raising bit removes a lot of wood.
A word of caution is necessary here. Pressure-treated lumber is still wet when it is shipped to the retail stores. If it is too wet then the router will have a hard time cutting the new profile, and may end up peeling off long strips of wood in the process. Therefore, when selecting treated lumber for a project such as this, choose pieces that are only slightly damp and then place them in the direct sun for a couple of hours to fur- ther help dry them out. Be sure to turn the boards periodically so that both sides get exposed to the sunlight.
DO IT YOURSELF
This photo shows the resulting cove cut at the top of the treated wood siding.
The notch at the bottom of the siding is made with a Freud Rabbeting Bit.