Moulding and trim are what give the walls of a room its character and appeal. Whereas some DIY homeowners find this type of finish carpentry to be a rewarding challenge, others consider it a big pain in the neck. Here are a few pro-grade tips and tricks to help you succeed if you decide to tackle it yourself.
CHOICE OF MATERIAL Consider the different material options for your interior trim appli- cation. Solid wood trim can be milled with crisp angled profiles, and the natural wood grain can be beautifully stained. Wood trim is readily available and competitively
priced, but the material can shrink and swell with changes in temperature and moisture content. Stained wood installation also requires considerable carpen- try skill to cut and install, because gaps and nail holes in the joints can’t easily be disguised with caulk and paint. For painted trim, consider medium-density fiberboard (MDF), which is a composite material made from sawdust and resins. It’s an ultralight, low-cost alterna- tive to solid wood that is more dimensionally stable and comes in a wide range of stock profiles. MDF is easier to dent or nick than real wood, but minor gaps and efects in the installation can be caulked and painted. Another paint-grade alternative, polyurethane trim is more stable and lightweight than wood, but it mills, cuts and fastens in much the same way. It is slightly softer than wood, but this enables it to be manufactured in elaborate, plaster-like profiles. The joints of polyurethane trim also require polyurethane adhesive in addition to nails. For bathrooms or anywhere moisture is a concern and a sim- ple profile is appropriate, PVC trim won't warp, swell or rot, no matter how wet it gets. However, PVC trim is limited to a few simple profiles,
DO IT YOURSELF
Tips & Tricks for Moulding & Trim