Rigid metal flashing bent in an “L” should be installed behind the house wrap and extend past the first deck board. Last, hurl a bo- hunker caulk bead under the door threshold. Tip: Isolate the framing from the aluminum flashing with 1-1/2-in. strips of membrane. When cutting the strips, it’s sometimes better to pull the material through the knife than run the knife through the material. The Hyde Tools 25mm Snap-Off Knife is awesomely sharp with an easy blade change.
LEDGER & BEAM Gather those deck builders again, and it’s a fair bet most have gotten “off layout” somewhere between marking joist locations on the ledger one day and the beam another. As they install the joists— or worse, the decking—something looks out of skew. A preventive
cure: Layout the ledger and beam simultaneously. Cut your ledger and beam stock to the overall width of the deck. I use 2x10 treated Southern Pine for both (the material I get is so straight that checking it for crown is a waste of time). Mark joist loca- tions on the top edges. Also, mark the Left or Right side of each.
Cut the Ledger. The ledger has the left and right band joists face- nailed to each end. So, to maintain the correct width of the deck, 3- inches needs to be cut off the ledger. Since the ledger is already laid out, 1-1/2-inches needs to be cut from each end (not off one side) to allow thickness of the 2-by. Snap Lines & Install. Code wants the ledger screws 2 inches in from the top/bottom of the ledger in a zig zag pattern, so instead of measuring a million times during install, I snap lines. At
the house I snap a laser-leveled line 2 inches down from the bot- tom of the threshold for 2x6 pres- sure-treated decking. That marks the top of the ledger with a little room to spare.
Structural Screws. Code wants the ledger fasteners to penetrate the band joist inside the house. For framing with 1/2-inch sheathing
Cut 1-½” of each end of the ledger.
Snap lines 2” in from each edge of the ledger to mark for hardware.