Anyway, back to the curb. How you do it varies by project because the concrete and shower base is determined by your plumbing. If you’re not breaking the slab like I had to do, you may need to create a step into the shower so you can pitch the floor toward the drain. You may also be able to grind the floor, exposing the aggregate (also creating a metric ton of dust). No matter which way you slice it, the water needs to go somewhere. Drains are preferable. I formed the shower curb with a slight pitch, so the top of it was tucked under the wall cladding but the bottom is flush with the bottom of the cladding. Functional? Sure. Proportionate: Yup. I gave the con- crete a few days to set up before I touched it again. FRAMING Framing is pretty typical. I placed studs in the corners and evenly spaced between the corners ( 16 in. on-center doesn’t apply here). Since the main showerhead is Kohler’s 12x12, ceiling-mounted Shower Tile, I left room for the plumbing to get up the wall and into the ceiling. For the wall- mounted Kohler hand-shower, there was no need for the block- ing typically required for drywall or cement board showers because I could screw right to the wall. I did have to work around vent- ing from a nearby effluent pump and the electronic control for the showerheads. (Note: Electronic controls offer another slice of heaven, by the way. No waiting for water to heat up and it’s digital; 107-degrees is a nice temp for shower power). I installed horizontal blocking for sufficient nailing of the wood planks. And, I was extra careful to get everything as plumb as possible so all my corners would be nice and straight along the vertical.
The curb directs all the shower water away from basement walls and toward the drain. After the shower area is framed with wood studs and insulated, roofing membrane is installed at the corners.
If water penetrates the shower corner, the roofing membrane will protect the wall and divert it back onto the shower floor.