Extreme How To - Jan/Feb 2017

To get the wall cladding started, I used 1-in. (aka five-quarter, 5/4) corner blocks. The bottom cut is tricky. It’s a double miter and it took me a few minutes to wrap my head around it. Because you’re putting it in the corner, it has to be triple-mitered to mate up with both angled weatherboards. As I write this, I forget how I did it, but I did. A dab of clear latex caulk (I like DAP Dynaflex 230) where the cor- ner piece hits the weatherboard helps further seal the end grain. Now the fun stuff: when all the prep becomes pomp and perfection. I rip the groove off the first board on the table saw and install it using both face nails and tongue nails. I cut this to fit tight between floor and ceiling because
you can see the edge. Then I follow up with the next piece, cutting the miter on the bottom to cover the weatherboard and cutting the top about 1/4-in. shy of the ceiling. Then, just like you would with any T&G project, when you come to an obstruction (the corner blocks here), I rip the back half of the groove off, rip the board to width and install with face nails.

Get creative to put a personal stamp on your project. To make a rugged shower caddy I used CSST (corrugat- ed stainless steel tubing), 4x7 steel striker plates and 3/4-in. threaded couplings. I then used my Bernzomatic butane torch and some solder to cobble together a shower accessory that I’d get thrown out of Bed, Bath and Beyond for even thinking about… Also, take note of the electronic control panel for the shower head.

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