CONSTRUCTION Build a Sawbuck. Since my chainsaw is my mainframe cutting tool here, I built a sawbuck to make cutting easier and faster. I bridged three poles with 2x6 to create a workstation that would trap the round poles while I cut them. It kept the work stable and flat and kept my saw’s chain out of the dirt.
Focal Point. I’ve seen the willy- nilly garden hose layout some landscapers depend on. The car- penter in me has a tough time being that imprecise. For this micro-henge, I sunk a structural screw in the center of the circle location, then hooked my tape on it.
Pull your tape half the diameter of the circle (ex: 3 feet for a 6-foot circle) and "swing" it. Working
alone, I gouged a path in the grass with my Hyde painters’ tool. Or, have someone follow you with a bottle of chalk. Alone or in tandem, chalk or spray-paint the line before digging.
Dig a Moat. I cut an edge and dug a moat using a garden spade. The earth gives the bottoms of the poles some backing and sup- port and makes them easier to set.
Measure and Cut. To get the Stonehenge (Planthenge) effect, I cut the poles between 22 and 28 inches and angled my chainsaw slightly differently in each cut. The sawbuck makes it easy to slash out quick marks and get four pieces out of an 8-ft. pole.
The chainsaw was fun to use on this project. There I no better tool for making quick cuts in big pieces of wood.
Setting Poles. Get two poles reasonable plumb, set them in the moat and bomb a structural screw in there to lock them together.
Build a sawbuck to stabilize the work.
Sink a long screw in the center of the garden location as a focal point for swinging a circle.
Hook your tape on the screw and gouge a path in the grass.
Follow up with chalk to make the line more visible.
Cut an edge and dig a moat. Pile the dirt in the center.
Set a pole in the sawbuck, make your marks and make the cuts.
The sawbuck stabilizes the work and keeps the saw out of the dirt for clean, fast cuts.