STEP BY STEP
We found this 100-ft. roll of safety fence at our local home- improvement center. It is strong, flexible and can be easily stored for reuse.
Because of our siding design, we could remove a batten board to access attachment points for our fencing, which allowed us to staple to the house without worry- ing about extra holes. Depending upon your situation, you could also use a fence post at the house, or pin the end of the fence to the house with a furring strip. The idea is to make it secure while avoiding a big repair when the fence is removed. Because the fence is temporary, you can leave some extra material on the ends and add fasteners
where it makes sense to allow for angles where you are following the slope of the ground, coming down off a deck, or going over or around landscaping features.
After drilling holes in the ground with an old spade bit (slightly smaller than the diameter of the bamboo), we drove our temporary posts into the ground. The posts do not need to be perfectly straight or plumb.
We drilled holes near the top and bottom of each post to accept a zip tie for attaching the fencing. We did this rather than going
around the post with the zip ties so the dogs couldn't slide the fencing up the posts.
We let some of the fencing lap out onto the ground to avoid any tempting openings for the dogs. We also fastened the bottom of the fencing to the deck in places and staked it to the ground where we had concerns about escape routes. Our temporary fence allowed us to go through several steps of lawn repair including killing moss, filling in low spots with lawn base soil, and planting new grass.
When the one side was healthy enough for animal use, we switched the house-end of the fence to the other side of the dog door and finished the repairs on the other half of the lawn. The fencing was easily rolled up for storage when the job was done. EHT