We decided to use a super highly technical carpentry trick called “splitting the difference” (just kid- ding). We took the 1/2 inch off the largest measurement and cut all the sloped ceiling boards the same size. Once we knew that measure- ment, we snapped a chalk line across the top of the ceiling slope as a visual reference. Tip: If you’re able, cutting all the boards the same size keeps things consistent and allows you to set up a cutting jig for faster, more effi- cient cutting. We installed a temporary board along the chalk line at the top ceil- ing slope as a “stop” for our boards. This enabled us to push the beadboard boards against the stop to ensure a consistent line across the ceiling. INSTALLING THE FIRST BOARD We installed the first board against the side wall with its grooved edge facing the wall, tongue facing out into the ceiling field. While holding the first board in position, we measured across the ceiling to the opposite wall to be sure the board was parallel to it. (If
the top and bottom measurements of the board show it’s not parallel to the wall, then angle the board slightly until it is.) With the first board held in prop- er alignment, we installed 6d finish nails at an angle through the tongue and into the strapping (this is called blind nailing). The nails in the tongue will be hidden by the next board’s grooved edge. I also installed a few nails at the ceil- ing/wall edge, this is called face- nailing. You will only see face nails on the first and last boards, not on the ones in between. Don’t worry if there’s a slight gap between the boards and the wall; it will allow room for expansion and will be hidden by molding.
FILLING IN THE FIELD Install the second and subse- quent boards by pressing its grooved edge over the exposed tongue of the first board. If it does- n’t fit tightly, hold a scrap of bead board against its outer edge and tap it lightly with a hammer. Be careful not to damage the tongue. Secure the board by nailing through the tongue and into the strapping. Be sure all joints between the boards are tightly closed. If you come to a ceiling-mounted light fixture, air-conditioning grille or other obstruction, remove it and cut the board to fit around the
We first installed 1x3 strapping 16” on center over the ceiling rafters.
The 90-degree alignment provides a solid nailer at every 16” for fas- tening the boards perpendicular to the rafters. A temporary board at the top of the roof slope served as a guide for installing the beadboard boards.
The boards intersect the tempo- rary board at the top of the slope.