electrical box or duct hole. For a recessed light, remove the decora- tive trim and slip the board into position. Hold the trim against the ceiling fixture and trace where it overlaps the board. I then use a compass to finish the trace pattern. Cut the board along the line with a jigsaw, nail it to the ceiling.
HALFWAY AND THREE-
QUARTER MARKS At both the halfway and 3/4- mark, it’s a good idea to take
parallel measurements to ensure the boards are still running paral- lel. If not, you can make minor cor- rections by angling the boards slightly. Spread this across multiple boards to achieve parallel again.
LAST BOARD Many times the last board needs to be ripped thinner. I sometimes rip a slight bevel ( 15°) so the board angles into position, but the joint looks and fits tightly. Another trick I sometimes use is to leave the second to last board loose, and snap them both into place at the same time. Whatever method you choose, you will need to face-nail either the last or both boards when done.
The boards terminate at the LVL band of the porch roof.
Cutting a bevel at the board ends will help ensure a snug fit.
Multi-level scaffolding will make a job like this much easier. It may be necessary to tap the boards together to close the seams, but be careful not to damage the joint.
Measure the boards to make sure you’re installing them parallel to the porch walls.
Use a jigsaw to notch boards to fit around obstructions.
Here we had to cut room for the roof bracing.
This project involved several can lights.
The tongue-and-groove beadboard boards are blind-nailed onto the nailers.