ended up with 10-1/2-in. spacing between shelf nosings. (We based our spacing off the 1-1/2-in. shelf nosing; the actual spacing between shelves is 11-1/4-in.)
APPLYING THE CLEATS Once we had our shelves laid out, we started cutting cleats. For the shelves we needed 10 cleats, measuring 3/4x3/4-in. cut to the
depth of the shelves. The cleats, like the shelves will be the same depth as the vertical plywood pan- els. We used DAP Construction Trim and Panel Adhesive and brad nails to fasten the cleats onto the plywood sides.
CUTTING THE SHELVES We cut five shelves using a circular saw and rip fence. The
shelves were left at 24 in. and cut to the same depth of the cleats and vertical plywood sides.
INSTALLING THE VERTICAL
PLYWOOD SIDES We installed the inside wall ver- tical panel first. We used the DAP adhesive and glued and fastened the panel to the one wall stud we could with 2-1/2-in. finish nails. To install the other panel, we used two short shelves as spacers, fastening them to the shelf cleats with DAP adhesive and brad nails. Once those two shelves were secured, we installed the remaining shelves the same way. The top, longer shelf was installed and fastened to the tops of the vertical panels, as well as a wall cleat spanning from the shelf unit to the opposite closet corner. This cleat was longer and wider than the other cleats (1-1/2 in.) and was fastened to the wall studs with two finish nails per stud.
APPLYING THE FACE-FRAME The face-frame is 1-1/2-in. Poplar wood. We installed the long parts first, which was the two verticals and top shelf nosing.
Use a liberal amount of construc- tion adhesive to fasten the side panel to the wall. Nail the panel into any studs you can reach while the glue dries.
The shelves are glued over the cleats. The opposite panel is installed along with two shelves, which serve as spacers, and the cleats on each side provide a nailing surface. Fasten the shelves over the cleats with finish nails while the glue sets.